To reinstall the tranny, reverse the 10 steps above. I did this, and was able to get the same amount of oil back in. Then set it back down, and top it off again. Put the plug in, and twist and rotate the tranny around. If you put in less than you took out and the tranny is full, then obviously you didn't refill all the nooks and crannies. The level should be almost right to the top, but not too full so that if you put the plug back in, that oil will leak out. If your "finger dip-stick test" showed you were low, then obviously you should be able to get more oil in than you get out. Replace the same amount of oil that you took out, with a good quality product. Set it down, right side up, and measure the amount of oil you took out. Take the plug out, and invert the tranny again to get the rest of the oil out. Rotate the tranny around to get all the oil out of all the nooks and crannies. Make a mental note if that's not the case. The oil level should be right near the top. Take the filler plug out, and stick your (clean) finger in the hole. If "one speck" of dirt, or one "blade of grass" gets in the tranny - you're screwed! Wipe the area around the fill plug with a rag, to get all the sticky dirt off. Once the tranny is out, use a paint brush, and low-pressure air to blow all the dirt off it, before you open any internal cavities. Slowly lower the tranny with the jack, while observing for interferences - which you obviously want to clear so you don't break anything. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the tranny onto the frame. Secure a jack (a hydraulic one works best) under the tranny - use a block of wood between the tranny and the jack. Take a break & crack one of the frosties, because the next step, you'll be dropping the tranny. Then pull the lever all the way out the back, as far as it will go, so it's out of the way Decouple the free-wheeling actuator link by removing the spring clip & washer, and removing the pin from the lever. Decouple the brake actuator link by removing the spring clip & washer, and removing the pin from the lever Decouple the fwd/rev actuator link by removing the spring clip & washer, and removing the pin from the lever I can't remember if I took them right off, or just unbolted one end (either the frame end, or the tranny end) I think there are 2 of them - one on either side. Unbolt the torque brackets off the frame. Reason for the fan, is so you don't break it while handling the transmisson - the blades are quite fragile: I broke 2 blades off the fan, by not doing this while taking my tranny off. Take the belt off, the belt retainer bar, and the pulley & fan off. Jack up the tractor and secure properly on jack stands. Or stick them into a snow bank (applicable to Molson only). Put a couple of frosties (Bud, Busch, or Molson Canadian) in the fridge. It took me 2 hours start to finish to do this. Then print them and take them with you to the garage. Read all the instructions before you even get up off your computer chair. If you break your tractor while not-following these instructions, it ain't my fault either. Now that I've looked at the diagram, it's got me wondering.Ĭouldn't find the original procedure I wrote, so after 18 months, I'll try to do it from memory.īy the way - this was done on the L120 basically the same machine but different engine.ĭISCLAIMER: if you break your tractor while following these instructions, it ain't my fault. There's also the possibility that MY machine is screwed up, but then it would have to have been from the factory. Just loosen and move till you get the needed tension. Oh, if the belt has slipped and just needs tightening, look at bolt #4. If the above checks out, then either the wrong belt is in place, or the idler spring is losing tension after warm up, but I can't see how that would happen. The above is a cold belt after full break in. Its tough doing it with your little finger, but easy if you use all four.īrake pedal in park position - belts have enough play to touch without applying much force. When you do, the two pulleys align in a more fore-aft alignment. The drive (left) side belt needs about 5# of force to pull it over to the other side. Here's what the belts are like on my L120.īrake pedal released - On the right side the belt first passes over the flat idler then the V idler. The belt doesn't have to come off to replace the hydro and they would have done the swap as cheaply as possible. The reason I ask is that it is possible for the JD tech to have replaced the hydro and never notice that it was botched from the factory. Make sure that they are in the correct position AND that the back of the belt rides on the flat idler and the front is in the v-pulley. One is a flat idler, one a v-belt pulley. In wally2q's diagram notice the pulley's marked 32 and 33. I know this sounds redundant, and really, I'm not being a smart but check your belt routing again.
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